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Getting a Drivers License

Driving in Rome is not for the faint hearted. One must balance a certain Zen calmness with just the correct amount of aggressiveness. Too much Zen and you get parking places stolen as you’re backing into them and can never manage to make a left turn across traffic. Too much aggression and you’re constantly getting into shouting matches. It’s is a game of angles and pressure points. Put on your best poker face and put the car in gear.

But before you can put the car in gear, you have to get a driver’s license.

Later in life, in the States, I went down to the DMV and signed up for my American driver’s license. I was given a booklet that set me on the straight and narrow and was told to come back when I was ready. There were even practice tests with answers. I studied the booklet at home for a few days, then went down and took the test. The practical part of the exam consisted of a drive around the block, a left turn and a parking maneuver in a space large enough to moor the Queen Mary. All in all it took me about a week and a half to get my license. I had already gotten my Italian license and this seemed too good to be true.

Because, you see, in Italy things are a little different. Here I had to wait to get my driver’s license until I was 18 years of age. I then had to sign up for driving school ( auto scuola ), which, in my case, took about three months to complete. This included 10 lessons behind the wheel of a specially equipped FIAT 850. The car had duplicate controls on the passenger side so that the instructor could take over at any time.

Nothing was left to chance here.

I was also given a sign with a ‘P’ on it. The P stood for ‘principiante’ I passed the exam. I felt like a pariah.

I could drive the family car only under certain conditions: A licensed driver had to be seated in the passenger seat. This driver was responsible for everything I did and had to have had his license for at least five years. I could only drive during the day and never during rush hour.

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